Pyhäjärvi - Karhujärvi ~ 110 km

Initially I wanted to do 150 km that day, but at the end I just didn't want to, so I stopped one camp site earlier.

Today I left the E75, because I wanted to do 15 km on unsurfaced road. As unsurfaced roads in the finnish cycle-maps are marked with a broken line (strichliert), and I didn't pay enough attention, I realized only when the street finished in the lake, that not only the cycle path, but also the street was broken... I would have loved to see my face in that moment, I was quite amazed. But as there was a little ferry I could go to the other waterside - as the one and only passenger!

Weather is getting warmer, for lunch you can sit down without freezing. In the evening for the first time since Karasjok I was wearing only a TShirt (I admit, more because of defiance (Trotz) than because of having hot ;o).

It was also the first time, that I didn't have to use Mygga here in Finland... It was also the first time, that I wanted to cook outside on my cooker and not into the kitchen. There was no wind today... But... There wasn't any gas in the Cartridge... I don't know where it is gone... I just uses my cooker as little as possible for saving gas and therefore I was cooking very often at the campsite kitchens, and now? The last time I used it at Olderfjord, and I didn't remember that it stopped burning... so something is wrong with it... However, dinner was fine...


Just passing by... I did that foto


No, this is not a lake. It's only a River (Kemijoki right before Kemijärvi


Perfect Harmony of Colours: Sky, River, and ... Railwaybridge


A hommage to... : Thank you for offering me shelter during some rain...


no need for words


I wish, our schools were nice as those finnish are...



click: The end of the street...


Just thinking...


If you make fotos only on campsites, the album would be nice as well...


Oh man, kitschig - but it's really like this...


What nice reflections of the sun...


some tresses on a birch stem


"Same procedure as last day?" - "Same procedure as every day!"

Voimala - Pyhäjärvi ~ 130 km

Same as yesterday: at 11.45 I started my bicycle day. 3 hours later I arrived at Sodankylä, for having some money, some food, some Voltaren (I don't know if it was just because I obviously was a bike tourist, or it is always like that in Finnland, but I didn't need a prescription from a doctor...and one does in Austria...) and some Internet at the tourist info.
The last days I followed the Route E75, and it was quite unspektacular. just going straight ahead, I didn' have to look at the maps. Somehow it's nice because your thoughts can go strolling around, but I was glad when I could leave this street for some more adventurous streets. I passed some more Winter sport ressorts (dead...) until I reached Pyhäjärvi („Holy lake“). The camping site was beautiful, as nearly every finnish and norvegian campsite is: with a beautiful view of the lake... with a beautiful sunset, which I looked at without taking pictures, just to have it for me...
When I was at the reception, where I could use the internet for free (what a service!), the owner came to me and told me, that it would be very cold tonight, and if i wanted, i could stay in the 1-mökki (that act as kitchen and toilet for those who stay there with tent. Don't miss the chance! So I could decide, which of the eight beds i wanted to use. Very nice, also because I could recharge my battery for the camera...
After having some tea I sank to bed and fell asleep immediately – at about 1 am... like all days now...


I was wearing this all for the night...


A small hiking path across the swamp

Click: Ya, right, once more... red, finnish houses...


The first "don't-panic"- Reindeer I saw!

Click: birch in backlight


anti-reindeer-passing-fence

Click: Broken cork screw tree


This is right the camping...

Click: Once more


no comment

Ukonjärvi - Voimala ~ 110 km

As I got to bed yesterday only very late, I got up today also very late at 10 am... I guess I needed some more sleep. So, packing my things I departed at 12 midday.

I just did my 110 km without special events. It was cold! when I was at same latitude one week ago it was much wormer, I'm still traveling with my warm red winter jacket.

I wanted to stay at Vuotso, but, as so often it happend also today, that there wasn't any camping anymore. So I just had to go on, and finally I found a nice place. They have mökkis for to rent, but allowed me to stay there just with my tent. They were smoking fish, and it just smelled so good, that when I came to the reception, I said, that I want to stay for tonight and one smoked fish... *njam*

So I sat at the cafè, where I was allowed to eat my fish, and right after the cafè closed, I went to the camping kitchen and cooked myself something. And some tea, as I'm now proud owner of some teabags...

Now, after my knees got used to that trip, my Achilles tendon started to hurt. I realized it right on the northcape, but I didn't know, it wouldn't stop. I thought, there was just too much pressure from my socks and legging, because of wearing too much. But that wasn't the reason... Moving my feet my tendon was similiar to an doorarticulation (Scharnier), that had too little oil *knarz*

Only at midnight I went to bed. It seems, my day/night rhythm had changed a little...


Trees are growing like cork screwer...


At vuotso, looking for the camping

Click: Bridge over not troubled water
Click: Once more crossing a small Harju

As I didn't sleep that night, the two days (01/08 and 02/08) are both in this story.

Nordkapp – Honningsvåg ~ 30 (?) km
Inari – Ukonjärvi ~ 30 km
and some additional km by foot

The night ended like it started: Fog, clouds and cold feet... So today no possibility to see the solar eclipse... what a pity as well.

The next fixpoints of our journey were 1 am tonight my bus from Northcape back to Finnland, and the ferry at 6.15 am for Mathieu. So we had plenty of time. For not freezing and for meeting more intensive the Fauna of Magerøya, we started to walk in direction of the real northcape, that is even some decimals of a degree more northern than the wellknown, impressive rock at the touristic north cape.

Beautiful, as I just mentioned in one of my „greetings home while traveling“. We were walking around for some hours (4? 5? 6? I don't remember, time wasn't important). Finally we were not at the real northcape, but from our place we could see both, we had a beautiful view of ... the nothing... Perfect to sit and think about ... nothing...

It's the northernmost place I've ever been, and I guess it will last at least for a very, very long time... ;o)

Back at the tent we had lunch (5 pm...) and today I really managed to cook something. Somehow one gets used to this cold. I obviously should have prepared my trip a little better, just for knowing about temperatures. Would I have done this if I knew it would be cold like that? Thinking... Yes, I just would have bought some more indicated equipment.

Afterwards we made our cycles ready for takeoff for going to Honningsvåg. Maybe we could find out about the bus. I couldn't get onto it on northcape, because I never have been over there. For this time the wind came from the back, and it was easier to go uphill. Some won't believe, but you REALLY can notice a difference.

The biggest problem for me was getting some information. Do I have to pay in norwegian crouns? How much do I have to withdraw from the automatic cash dispenser? As I'm going back to Finnland I don't have any need for more crouns. Is it possible to pay with creditcard? Where does the bus leave? When does the bus leave at Honningsvåg? And still no answers. In a bar there would have been the possibility to use internet. An expensive possibility... But luckily an australian guy had the time table exactly for the routes I needed. Thank you! The bus is going to arrive at 1.30 am at Honningsvåg. And is going to leave at 5.10. ok. I didn't expect that, however, Mathieu and I had the same fate: passing the night.

At the beginning of the trip I wrote on my blog, that at northcape I have to stay awake all the night long, just for seeing how it is, with no sunset and no sunrise. Best possibility was today ;o) Just, it was a little cold, so we sat down in the bar, had some maps for talking about nice places in Finnland, where I could go. Time passed, at 1.30 I went to the bus, just for getting some information. The only information I got from the bus driver was, that he cannot speak english. Fine. He didn't even understand the word „Credit Card“. (Even if in finnish it's kredit kortti). However, one of the passengers told me, that he paid with credit card as well. (just one sentence, my answer: „where are you from?“ „from Austria“ That's what I suspected...) I just gave him my Credit Card, and said something like: „Inari – yksi polkupyörä“ It was good training on my bike counting from one to onehundred in finnish, when I was bored... So finally I managed to get my ticket. Happily that I had one problem less I got back in the bar. some times later we had the next problem: Bar is closing, we had to go out. Sh-sh-shivering cold. Finally we stopped at a bus shelter, because there was absolutley no possibility to stay somewhere else. Hungry as (at least) I was, we had a „midnight“ snack in the strange light of a night, that doesn't seem to be one. for not freezing to much we sat on my Isomat, covered with my Sleepingbag, and just waited for the morning, talking about this and that.

And finally morning came...

I got onto the bus, leaving Mathieu alone in the cold and grey Honningsvåg morning.

In the bus I re-met David, the austrian guy. We were talking about what we were doing here at the northcape, where to go back. He lives at Helsinki for the moment, and prepared a sheet for me: „Helsinke Essentials“ Where to stay, shop, go out, what to look at. Then I HAD to look out of the window... The Tunnel... by car now. it seemed to be much more steeper than going by bike. it seemed also to be much more longer than by bike. The signs each kilometer seemed not and not to arrive, while traveling by bike I didn't await them like now.

David and I were talking for some time. I remember I fell asleep somewhere between where we had lunch two days ago and Olderfjord, and woke up at Lakselv at about 8 am. The bus driver told us, that we would have a break for about 40 minutes, but everything (shops, café's) is closed, because „it is saturday“, as he told us. I couldn't sleep any more afterwards. As I had a backpack filled up with food, and David didn't find anything at the shops (...) we had „breakfast“ in the bus.

The bus arrived at Inari right at midday. I got on my bike for going along lake Inari, some kilometers later I had lunch at the lake. Just sitting there, thinking about what I could do the next days (I didn't have ANY plans for the time after the solar eclipse), thinking about what had happened to me during my trip, thinking about what had changed... Two days ago I said, that I missed the tranquil moments on my trips, just for sitting at the lake site and look at the lake. Now I was sitting there for about one hour before going on.

But sitting on my bike again I realized, that I REALLY was tired. I had trouble to keep my eyes open... so I decided to go to the next camping at Ukonjärvi. So after a distance of only 30 km today my trip finished at a small campsite. My first question at the reception was: „Is there any possibility to wash my clothes?“ How luxury that would be, having all my clothes washed after that trip I did to the northcape. As the answer was „yes“ i decided to stay here. I put up my tent and came back for taking some token for the washing machine. The man of the camping took some token in his hand, put to a pile a few token, while talking to me: „So for washing your clothes“ - two more token - „you have to pay 8 Euro“ - and even more token - „and if you want to dry your clothes as well“ - adding some more token to the pile - „it depends on how much you have to dry“. „Only few, look, I'm here by bike...“ „So then 4 Euro should be enough“ And two more token. I guess I was quite pale... „Äh... I think I'm going to look if I can find some dry clothes for today...“
They wanted me to pay 12 (!) Euro for washing and drying my clothes... What a luxure that WOULD HAVE BEEN washing all my clothes after my trip to the northcape...
But the camping was very antipatic at all: it was a two-class-camping: there were two diffrent kinds of toilet&shower: One (I guess more luxury one) for those who lived in a mökki, and one for us, who lived in the tent... :o(

So I got to bed at about 3 pm. At 6 I woke up, turned around, and slept on. At 9 pm I woke up. And got up... I was hungry! So I went to the kitchen, emptied my backpack, made a good hot soup for 4 persons, and while eating like in trance, a polish guy came in and asked me if he could use just a little piece of the kitchen table for his computer... As usual I spread all my things on the whole table. We started to talk a little, and he was quite amazed of my trip, as nearly everyone was. (I hope you enjoy reading this blog! Sorry, I even didn't ask you for your name...) After having some more tea it was quite late, but I wasn't tired at all. so I had shower at I guess 1 am. And then bed again...

Click: Our tentplace on the northcape
Click: Nature was sparse, but I liked the lakes so much
Click: Once more
Click: It was REAL snow... what else...?
Click: That's the true northcape
Click: Somewhere before Ukonjärvi
Click: I love those combination of water, trees and rocks

Olderfjord - Norkap ~ 125 km


Yesterday we made an appointment for breakfast, "not before 8 am"... so I think we got up at about 8.30. I managed to repair the Zip of my trousers, that broke yesterday in the evening, just before breakfast. Hans, Holger, Mathieu and I were sitting in the small kitchen of the camping, because weather was a little rainy. Hot chocolate today not only for me, but also for Holger, who loves chocolate the same as I do... Then our ways separated: The two germans were going to Alta for the flight back to Germany, Mathieu and I still had to go to the northcape.

Going along the coast was beautiful! Just a little bit windy... Everytime a little sun appeared, it was even more beautiful, and warmer... For the first time I wore my bike-winter-jacket. And it was necessary... Until Karasjok I just wore a T-Shirt... For having lunch we hid behind a hill, so it was quite warm to sit there.

We were thinking about taking the ferry (because in my brandnew norway map there was marked the ferry as well...), because everyone told us horrible stories: the man at Karasjok (well, better don't believe him?), but also Hans and Holger told, that they got off their bikes... So we made a little detour for going to the ferry harbour. There were cars. So hopefully there would be also people... Nope. There was nobody, just a timetabe. We missed the last ferry for 15 minutes - and 9 years. So no other chance than going through the tunnel. The men at Karasjok told me as well, that the best time for passing the tunnel is after 4 pm, because all buses transporting tourists to the northcape would go earlier. Concerning the traffic it wasn't too bad. Just ... even when a motorbike passed, it sound like a truck...

Just before the entrance there was a sign "attention, fog in the tunnel". having a look at the entrance you could see the fog coming out of it... So, as every tunnel beneath some water, it started with a part going down - in this case with a decline of 9 % for a distance of 3 km. Going down would have been much fun, if you would have been possible to see something. But in combination with the fog it was spooky... For not using the brakes all the time I used myself as a wind-brake, sitting very straight on my bike. At the end it was right the opposite: 3 km with an incline of 9 %. *fear* Every one km there was a sign, so you could do the tunnel just little by litte, step by step. and little by little we reached the other end... What a joy! Happy! Emotions! and a rainbow... how nice! and some chocolate, of course... We did it! (And it wasn't even as hard as I imagined it to be...)

For going to the northcape we had to cross the whole Island Magerøya. That means: hills. for 30 more km. The awful thing about traveling together with someone with a recumbent bike is, that going downhill you can't have a little rest anymore... at least I couldn't, I don't bear (ertragen) someone waiting for me. Mathieu was just so much faster without pedaling than me struggeling (strampelnd)... I guess that is one reason why I was really exhausted that evening.

As we both were not here for saying: "I was at the northcape!" but for some other reasons we didn't even go to the touristic northcape. (Sorry for all those who would have wished receiving a post card from over there) The famous globe I saw only from faaar away. I wouldn't have beared the torustic crowds after two weeks traveling through beautiful nature that seemed to be just for me, as there was nobody else... And the nature at Magerøya was worth having a closer look to it.

So we stayed somewhere in the middle of nowhere for the night. Wind was blowing, but however Mathieu found a nice place to stay, nearly without wind when sitting in the right place - behind the stone hill. My plans for cooking tonight were gone. I don't remember the time when we finally reached, I just remeber it was late... So Mathieu prepared some food, while I was changing clothes. A thing, that last quite a long time, as I put on two pair of socks, two trousers, two t-shirts, a thin pullover, my fleece jacket, wind tousers, wind jacket and a scarf... (And I was sh-sh-shivering as well...) So we had some tea. and some more tea... while sitting there Mathieu started to write some notes in his carnet (I refused, because of having too cold and beeing too tired), I nearly was falling asleep while SITTING... So I just HAD to go to bed. My dream *) of seeing the Midnight Sun (today is the last possibility for this year...) didn't come true ... so hopefully tomorrow we could see the solar eclipse...


*) At home I fixed a sheet at my cupboard (it's still there in my old room at my parents place) with the title "Wenn ich einmal groß bin..." (When I'm growen up...), and I started to write all things that I want to do somewhen in my life. On point is "I want to see the midnight sun". Another one says: "I want to see the starry night at the southern hemisphere" for example.



Click: Even the waste Containers have the dark red colour like the wooden houses...


Native Inhabitant of Norway ;o)


Funny sign. Now we are staying in the wind-free area?

Click: Mathieu: Colourful red dot in grey sorroundings :o))
Click: Fjord Landscape
Click: We went down to the sea for taking pictures
Click: Nordkapp Kommun

How nice it must be to stay here for the summer


A little sun while having lunch
Click: Rainbow
Click: No, it didn't need any help of photoshop... it was REALLY like this...
Click: Lots of Cairnes