Manamansalo - Iisalmi ~ 130 km


For the first time for a long while sun was shining for breakfast! I got up at 8.30 and started at 10.30.

There was bright sunshine, wind and heavy rain, the weather let me try all varieties it can offer in this day. At Vuolijoki little shopstop (I'm looking forward to my fridge sometimes, for not have to go shopping every day...), lunch was about 50 km later (at km 80-90), because of the rain, and because of a friendly man, who adopted me on street for some kilometers: he was going with his racing bicycle, and offered me his splitstream (? Windschatten) without words. He just went right in front of me and took a little care of me. Nice... But as he was cycling only 2-3 days, he had much less luggage, and with his racing bike he had a little advantage. So it was impossible for me following him. What a pity...

However, before I reached Sukeva I had lunch on a very small road parallel to the main road. There was shadow in the wood (of course...) and as it was quite fresh, I was looking for a place to have lunch in the sun. And I found it: It was right in the middle of the street... So I just stopped and sat down... not in the middle of the street, but just on the road. And for this half an hour there wasn't passing one car...

I wanted to stay at one of two campsites right behind Sukeva. But I didn't. Once more I changed my plans. As I couldn't decide which one I should take, I carried on with cycling - until Iisalmi, 35 additional km.

And it was over there at Iisalmi, where I found some more straw- and raspberries... So: Stop obligatory... Isn't there any sticker for my bike: "Will brake for berries!" ?

The campsite was quite big, and quite strange, once more. It was at the same time an exhibition place for wooden sculptures. They were placed all over the campsite. It was at the riversite, and this time I placed my tent in the way, that tomorrow the sun could wake me up, shining onto/into my tent.

In the evening (LATE in the evening... about 10.00 pm) I started cooking. People were looking at me quite strange... However, while cooking I recharged my battery for the camera. After cooking, eating, washing the dishes, it needed some more time for charging... So, what could I do? I just wrote my diary before while having a coffe and re-warming myself at the Cafè at the reception. As I nearly didn't have any chocolate today, I just decided to make a Choco-Fondue, right for passing time. I cut a banana, an orange and some dried plums, melted the chocolate an ... mmmmhhh! ... and got to bed only at... 1am?

Finally I made my plans, when to take the train to go back to Helsinki. Tomorrow will be the last day travelling with my bike. Wow. A little bit I was also sad, but as I wanted to stay some days at Helsinki, there was no other possibility.

I can still remember moments (while going in direction Northcape) in which I was thinking about what to do after having reached the aim. I remember thoughts like "I will be so glad, if I don't have to sit on my bike for some days". I remember thoughts about going back to Helsinki directly and then travelling with train. I never thought, I would love so much going by bike. And after all, I think I'm going to miss my bike in the next few days...



having lunch in the middle of the road


typical landscape in the south of Finland

Click: njam...

(PS: Photos, somehow, are now always quite the same as I just showed you some. Therefore there are always so few pictures in the last days...)

In the post "Music on my Mind" there was just the title, but somehow this song was so true...

Avril Lavigne - Everything Changes (when you turn around)

What was the moment, when I turned around? Yes, right.

What changed in this moment? So many things...

Travelling changed completely.
Until August 1st, I always had to go. I had to make 100 km per day, so I could see the solar eclipse. I don't want to say, that it was difficult, or a burden (Last). It was just like this. After that I was much more free what to do or not to do. I did 100 km per day as well, but it was different.
I didn't have to take the direct line, I could go just where I wanted, and do some "detours" just for going with the ferry in the lake Oulu. I just could stop one campsite ealier than I planned.
My thoughts about traveling changed as well: It was much more relaxing than before.

Weather changed.
Going northwards I had fine weather (yes of course, there was rain as well, but at all it was quite warm). Now it's cold. At the beginning of August, I thought, it was because of beeing so northern. but I realized, autumn started in Finnland. It got really cold...

My fitness changed.
Of course.

Somehow I changed.
That didn't happen just from one day to the other, but I changed. I felt much more relaxed about my life than before. Hey, I just crossed whole Finland, and somehow it is a great feeling. I always said, that I'm not ambitious... No, absolutely not, right...? I learned some things about me. It was a good opportunity, traveling alone nearly all the time.


(quoting my trip diary with some additions)

Ristijärvi - Manamansalo ~ 70 km


For breakfast - what a variety - wind and rain. can't believe it... Somehow I depurted "already" at 11 am... But then ... finally a good surprise: Wind comes from the back! And suddenly I wished I would have got up earlier... ;o)

And it was so strong that I really could feel it... "Le vent nous portera", on of the last songs of the trip playing on "Repeat" in my mind for the whole day...

This time I had better luck with my capabilities reading maps: I managed to find the right way, even if it was quite difficult. Finnish cycle pathes are marked every few hundred meters, if you don't have nothing to do than to go straight ahead on the street no. 5, for example. But if you have to leave a very large road and to take a very small way, there is no sign. So topographic accordance is the only hint (not even signs - it was a grey road...).

The street was very, very beautiful. I guess, not many tourists get lost in this streets (but maybe there are ... I'm not so special, as I learned at Pokka).

Not having any problem today, I arrived at the camping at 15.30... I thought about doing 50 more km, but the next Camping is at 100 km, so... stop here. The next question: Do I stay at a campsite with view of the east or of the west? Sunrise or sunset? I decided for the western Camping site, right in the national park, even if it has to be more expensive... Even if the weather wasn't so fine, but optimistic as I am... maybe there will be some sun later... So I put up my tent really right next to the beach, with an awsome view of the lake. It seemed more to be the sea than a lake...

So, what now? I was in a really good mood, I didn't wan't to stay here at the campsite, so I went to the reception, and asked, if it is allowed to go by bike through the national park. The answer was: "Yes, maybe, I don't now. I think it's not prohibited, but, however, I would not do this, because the roads are too bumpy". Yes, maybe, but that was not the question...

It was SO BEAUTIFUL going there... It was for the first time, that I left my luggage somewhere and cycled nearly weightlessly... it was more like hovering, than driving. I had a rest at the lakes, met lots of blue berries and cranberries, the colours of the national park were great. A little offroad with my "Mountain Bike". Streets were getting smaller, and smaller, and smaller... and at the end it wasn't a street but only a wooden bar to go over a swamp... (and of course I fell down over there, I was just too carefree and effusive... but the mosses were soft, and I didn't get hurt (other than austrian trenches (Graben) next to the street... ;o) )
However, it was just the right adventure after that short stage of today.

And at the evening I was happy about my optimism: Sun appeared and offered a wonderful sunset. It took (I think) one and a half hour for the sun to disappear... And I took lots of pictures... ;o) It wasn't so cold, because there was absolutely no wind.

So I decided to wash my hair, with no risk of getting too cold and therefore ill. But...

But when I came back from the shower, there was quite a storm. And it was so strong, that when I laid in my tent, it pushed the "wall" in my face, so I had to rearrange my mobiliar, putting the heavy bags windward against the door, so I could at least breath while sleeping... I thought, it might be hard to fall asleep with this noise of the wind... I thought this for about 2 mins, then I didn't think anything more ... *zzzz*


Fichtenbarometer - spruce barometer: Tell me something new...


At the campsite


at the national park


It was in a strange way very colorful...


no comment... such things exist only in Finnland...


right the view out of my tent...


...

Only for me I was sitting at the lakesite and enjoyed the Sunset. Marvellous! The waves of the lake are dabbeling and carry away many thoughts.
Only for me I had this plenty of time and I really enjoyed it.
Really just for me.
I didn't wish noone at my side.

(quoting my trip diary)

Suomussalmi - Ristijärvi ~ 80 km

Once more the day didn't end as I expected...

Once more I really didn't want to get out of my tent... there was still wind, and it reminded me on yesterday's stage... So, against my will I got up, and only at 11.30 I departed.

At Suomussalmi City I went to the supermarket for refill food supply ... and as everytime in this region I tried those Karelian Pirogg's (Piirakka) in several varieties... with rice, and potatoes, and with carrots... I like them very much, and as I'm at home now, I already googled for recipes...

Going along the street, somehow I got the feeling, I missed the street... My feeling was right, but it was only a small detour of 2 kilometers. Now, paying more attention to the road map, I found a street, that must have been the right one. As I (once more) took the bicycle path I didn't see the signs which cities are in this direction, but from the topography I thought, this one must be the right one. Looking always on the left (because there should come a branch-off (Abzweigung)) I went on. For some kilometers. For too much kilometers? Seems so... Once more my feeling told me, something isn't right. and once more my feeling was right. I really should trust my feelings; I should have learnt this on some previous holiday trips until now.

Only at kilometer 17 I had the proof: I'm on the right way! But I missed the branch-off... Having a look at the map I decided to go on, do a little detour in this direction, than having done a little detour and now going back the same route... All in all it was a detour of about 18 kilometers. It was nice going over there as well, but somehow it wasn't that motivating... (me getting lost... it's never motivating... ;o) ).

So now I had to decide what to do: Initially I wanted to go directly to Manamansalo, a semi-island in the lake Oulu, for visiting (and stay for overnight at) the national park over there. But with this detour and few motivation I decided to stop at Ristijärvi. So that would mean, a short stage for today, and a short stage for tomorrow. Ok.

As I suddenly had plenty of times, I decided to make a lunch break not just in the middle of nowhere next to the street, but to look for a nice place at the lake Hyrynjärvi. Just a little driving in direction of the lake (a very small detour, once more) after searching an adapted place [note while writing this: strange, now the right words come in italian to me, and I use a dicionary to translate them in german words for then using the dictionary to translate them in english...] only for a short while, I found the perfect place. (look pictures - no further comment)

In the evening, at the Camping at Ristijärvi, it was quite cold. Instead of drinking cold beer one is now drinking hot tea.

On this day, for the first time during my trip, somehow I was looking forward to arrive at home. Not in the sense: "When will I FINALLY be at home?!?" But in the sense: "Ok, I would enjoy if I came home now." All the worries were gone. A good sign for my life in Austria...

There was a wedding at the Restaurant of the camping, and it was much fun, hearing some tipical austrian waltz with finnish words... ;o) I thought, that is going to be a loooong evening. However, I got to bed quite early, even if I had a dance-itch to scratch ... all those foxtrott, tango, waltz, rumba, samba, jive....(of course all with finnish lyrics) my feet were moving to the beat of the music: while cooking, while having a shower, in my sleepingbag ... It's quite a long time ago, when I have danced the last time... But surprisingly the night wasn't that long. I got up in the night (too much tea...), at about 3 am, and it was over.

Click: about cliches: did you ever notice, that only one is carrying a backpack?


the perfect place for enjoying lunch


Just a tree stump somewhere next to the street. But what a funny form...

Click: Tree Stump


No, that's not sunset. that's only at about 6 pm...


... it's just a very strange light. That's the sun, not the moon...

Hossa – Suomussalmi ~ 90 km

Right the opposite of the stage yesterday was today: My hip hurts, my tendons hurt, I had 75 out of 90 km of strong wind in my face. Everybody who would have read the thoughts going throgh my mind on that day, would never in their lives start a trip like this.

I really was doubting, if I would reach the Campsite at Suomussalmi, even if I wanted to go further that day (Yes of course I knew I would, but I didn't really believe...)

And even if I really didn't feel fine today, it's everytime astounding how Finnland can recompense things that it does to you. Weather wasn't very fine that day, but when I reached Suomussalmi, sun came out from behind the clouds, offers you a color explosion. And the only thing you do, is stopping, getting of the bike, admiring this picture, saying: „How BEAUTIFUL it is“ and imediately you forget every effort you have gone through.

Nights start getting really cold, and also really dark. For the first time I'm using my flash light for writing my diary. The camping is much fun, instead of reindeers you can find geese and donkey walking around. The drinking water is slightly yellow, construction machinery are standing all over the site. But the view and the sunset were beautiful.

*) A Hommage to: "Attention: Reindeer Husbandary Area" (Rentierzuchtgebiet)


... and how to eat Blueberry Jam: in proper style on "mjykt bröd"


having lunch in the middle of nowhere No. 893


At rivers like this you can find a grilli for everyone to use (the pictures are not so nice, so you just see the river....)


Silta over Salmi


He's moving around just like he wants to...


Sunset, not just for me...

Karhujärvi - Hossa ~ 160 km

What a day!!
First I restarted a normal day/night rhythm, I got up and started the trip at 10.30, with a challenge against myself: As for the first 86 km I just had to cycle along the same street no. 5, I bet me (ich wette mit mir selbst), if I could do it with an average of more than 20 (with a break for having lunch at km 60) (for telling the truth, it was just a little trick: Now, after traveling three weeks I know something more about me: when I start a day cycling relaxed, I won't go far, because of me beeing not in a mood for to restart serious cycling in the afternoon. When I start with a tense speed, I'll keep it until the afternoon. klingt komisch, ist aber so. (sounds strange, but it is like that). therefore the speed cycling challenge...)
And I did. Having lunch somewhere on the street I saw my first (and last) Multebeere (fin.: lakka, sw.: hjortron, eng.:???sorry) the famous berries that grow only in nordic lands like Sweden, Finland and Norway (as I could proof in a beautiful Foto...), whereof there is made the famous finnish Lapponia-Liqueur. I tried it, but it doesn't taste very good (the berry, not the Liqueur...;o). Maybe it wasn't mature at all, but if you know berries only of fotos, it's difficult...

Traffic was getting more while getting closer to Kuusamo (and therefore getting more southern). Time to leave it and take smaller street, which I did about 15 km behind Kuusamo. Unsurfaced roads restarted, and as everytime I like this very much... The next challenge for that day: can I go 160 km a day? I wanted to stay at Hossa, a camping in a national park...

I was pedaling and pedaling, and suddenly one damned mosquito got into my eyes (yeah, I'm missing my sunglasses... just for wearing them during dusk...). I couldn't get it out, so I had to stop. When I finally could see something, I realized, that i stopped right in a „blue berry plantage“! Wow! Thank you, you da... you mosquito!

As I'm not only keen on chocolate, as one can think, but also on blueberries, I just HAD to get off my bike, even if it was quite late (i think it was about 6.30 pm) and I had a little way to go (35 km), but I just had to collect at least some of them. As I do a little cooking also on camping (how someone learned at northcape) and one can never have enough jam (as I learned at northcape) I decided to make myself some blueberry jam for tomorrow breakfast... I don't know, how long I was collecting blueberries, mosquitoes started eating me, and the blue color of the berries I didn't have only on my fingers and on my tounge, but also in the face beause of wiping them away...

Enthusiastic as I was in that moment, those last 35 km passed like flying, even without Condor. I was happy smiling, screaming because of joy, I just felt soooo good. (with a little help of some endorphines? ;o)

I arrived at the camping only at 9.30, I think. But at all, I have done 160 km with an average of 18. Yes, there were nearly no stops to look at the map today, and this I can notice every day, also on the average...

The camping seemed more to be a spa resort than a camping. The sauna was right next to the shower, and as it was so late, there was nobody. Because of having cold for the first time for about 14 years I really got into the sauna, a thing that I refuse every weekend at home.... I wasn't in quite long, but those relaxing 5 minutes were fine.

After that I just cooked dinner. while eating I was writing my tripdiary, and just after that I prepared my jam (a second cooking pot would have been useful, but not even in the kitchen I could find one), starting at midnight...

Once more during that trip I felt really alive, with the satisfying feeling, that I have enough power and energy to reach the aims I put myself, and do additional some jam... but after all, bed was sooo fine...

Everyone who could have read the thoughts going through my mind on that day, would take his bicycle and start a trip like that on the next day.



Click: One more beautiful view of one more beautiful lake... must be boring...


Having lunch right next to Street No. 5. Doesn't look like that, right?

My one and only "lakka" I found...


silent lake

I called them "Flockenblume". They were indicator for wet ground...


City-Squirrel

A wooden house - not red ;o)
Click: Believe it or not: those are all mosquitos...

Blueberries! Guys, there ARE blueberries 35 km to Hossa!

There was a foto quite similar to that, wasn't it?

I guess they were thinking something like: "Is she crazy?"

still life at night

How to make some blueberry jam...
Bring blueberry with a little water to boil, mash it partially, add enough sugar, cook for 5-10 mins, that's it! Buon appetito!